Ohlala! LaSunjae!

LaSunjae

View Photos (4) Image © 2010 thom Su Fengkun

Leave your pre-conceived ideas of what Korean cuisine is all about, at the airport check-in. When you step into LaSunJae in Gyeongju, in The Land of Morning Calm, it will dawn on you that even the good ol' humble kimchi has the power to surprise you!

Before sampling the much-talked about true-blue Shilla Dynasty cuisine, it would be appropriate to delve a little into the historical background; sifting through and perhaps, taking in just the right dose of the myths and legends of antiquity. Now, Shilla was one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea and arguably one of the far-reaching sustained dynasties in Asian history. If the Korean records Samguksaki (The Three Kingdoms Chronicle of Korea) were to be upheld as the gospel truth, Shilla had been a chiefdom once allied with China which eventually conquered Baekje in 660 and Goguryeo in 668.

A thought-provoking etymological hypothesis that has been bandied around, is that the native word for Seoul (the present capital of South Korea) originated from the name Seorabeol. If that does not quite ring the bell yet, you would need to dig further into the semantics, It has been long been suggested that the name of the Silla capital, Syeobeul (meaning "royal capital city), might have been altered from its Late Middle Korean form" into Syeoul, and finally morphed into Seoul in the Modern Korean language.

In a perplexing twist even for history buffs, the people most familiar with Silla's history circa 632 to 647 might just be the ardent Hallyu fans the world over. All credit goes to Queen Seondeok (alternatively spelt as Seonduk), the dynasty's twenty-seventh ruler, and its first reigning queen. Or, it might be more politically correct to give credit to the country's Munhwa Broadcasting Corporation (MBC), one of four major national television and radio networks. The station is responsible for producing the well-received historical drama detailing the life of the Queen, who was sometimes refered to as a King as well. So successful was this adaptation on the small screen that a stage version is being planned - one that has promised to deliver a captivating concoction of modern technology and dramatic twists.

With the series being recognised as a force to be beckoned with, it is little wonder that Shilla cuisine has ignited to imagination of the nation at large. All of a sudden, it has become worthwhile to travel all the way to the picturesque Bomun lake region of Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province. Whilst it is still somewhat of a well-kept secret, travellers in the know has been busy making trips to this Culinary School of Korea History and Culture Institute / museum and its LaSunJae : "The Restaurant of Shilla Millennium Cuisine".

Of the façade, one will be suitably awed by its architectural style, reminiscient of palace structures of the Shilla Dynasty era of Korean history. This complex of institute-museum-restaurant sits next to the Gyeongbuk Provincial Office for Cultural Affairs, an impressive building with the same structural style. For the unitiated, the Gyeongju Hilton Hotel near the Bomun Lake road serves as the landmark to look out for, before you turn North-northwest off of Route 4 at the Gyeongju Expo Park junction.

The word ‘heavenly' comes to mind as you kick back, ready to be served at Lasunjae. This feels like paradise on earth - from its legendary and exquisitely presented cuisines, to the individually finely hand-crafted ceramics, to the brocaded folding room dividers fashioned delicately in silk and fine threads, to the pillars and high ceiling ornamented with elaborate details. . It is a well-known fact that even the colours at the restaurant stay true to the historical records and are used in harmony of Yin and Yang, to create just the right balance. You can easily be forgiven into thinking that you have fallen into a timeslip and taken a step back to ages past, feeling quite like royalty. Perhaps, you feel compelled to dine the finest, in your capacity as a dowager, prince, regent or advisor, or maybe even be a member of the Park or Kim clan who ruled the Shilla Dynasty in time gone by. For the far-off traveller, it is flattering to learn that the restaurant's clientele have included dignitaries, politicians and people of culinary discretion. If you consider yourself as a connoiseur who is interested in or accustomed to fine dining.

For the average hansik aficionado, Lasunjae will prove to be quite a dining experience. In modern Korean cuisine, you would have noticed how the green and red hot peppers are used in abundance, almost with a vengeance. However, they were yet to be introduced during the Shilla period. Thus, it would be an utmost challenge to pick out any fiery-hot spicy dishe off the menu. Even the kimchi is not prepared with red pepper powder, so do not pin your high hopes on getting the omnipresent carmine garlicky version that is well-supplied at every contemporary household. On the other hand, those who crave for a milder taste would appreciate this ‘water LaSunJae is a restaurant unlike few others in ‘The land of Morning Calm', incidentally an accolade that seems incongruous, considering the concrete jungle that the capital Seoul has become. Yet, just four hours ride away in Gyeongju, you are finally able to witness and experience the fable that the phrase suggests. Befitting its millennium-old reputation, LaSunjae is akin to being the icing on the cake. In the midst of tumuli (tombs), temples, palaces, gardens, statues, castles and open-air museums, the restaurant is the epitome of all things quintessentially Korean.

The restaurant's claim to fame, with its aim for epicurean excellence does not come by chance. You have to honour the knowledge, skill and business acumen of Ms. Cha Eun-ung. This acclaimed proprietress has been wittily whipping up a storm of a cuisine, lovingly prepared with recipes and ingredients traditional to the royal houses of the Shilla kingdom.

The culinary treat is an ongoing journey - one that involves both the chef and diner - that will need an hour or two to complete its entire course. Contrary to other eateries where every dish and bowl is hastily plopped onto your table as a standard practice, Lasunjae waitresses and their managers, all dressed up to the nines in their fine hanboks, patiently serve the meals in separate courses. Moreover, the delectables are served in and on an assortment of hand-turned brass bowls and ceramic dishes, plates and salvers that bear testament to the dogmatism of that period.

The same degree of attention to detail is found in Ms. Cha who unquestionably remains a gourmet in her own right. Trained in the culinary arts, she is also a teacher who endeavours to pass on what she has painstakingly acquired through the years. Her previous portfolio as a a professor at one of Korea's well-known colleges has served her well as she interacts to students-cum-diners with ease and charm.

When making glutinous rice cake snacks, filled with sweetened tangerines, Ms. Cha would teasingly exclaim, "Oh-oh, they're like Granny's tits!" As the hall quietens down with anticipation as to whether or not she would offer an explanation or retraction, she bursts out into loud guffaws.

Such is the openness of the chef who leaves the guests a lot of room when making out her suggestions and observations. While it may still be a tad queasy for the novice as he shapes the mini rice cakes into said mammary forms, it soon becomes apparent (after being steamed in the back kitchen) why the juicy bits must belong to an elderly matron. The rice cake has come out flattened and tender, with that inviting piece of fresh-looking tangerine sparkling in the middle, leaving little to the imagination. In between flushed cheeks and giggles, you would understand why the guests are enjoying the meal so much more, as they finally get to appreciate the tongue-in-cheek humour of Ms. Cha. One should never doubt the master, as her words would surely be proven true at the end of the day. It feels almost like a lesson in Zen teaching, capriciously delivered so that you can stomach with humour and knowledge.

For the meat-lover, you would be thrilled to discover that Lasunjae does not just adhere to a vegetarian diet, and you could still order seafood and meat dishes. One signature dish which the traveller might order would be the ground Alaskan Pollack and ground deer blended andnd formed into bite-sized paddies baked to a delightful golden brown. For the less adventurous, you could try the thinly-sliced cuts of smoked duck served with a variety of fresh leaves including sesame, parilla, lotus and cress. Staying faithful to recipes and ingredients conventionally used at the time of Shilla Dynasty royal houses, you would find vegetables, wild plants, flowers, herbs, fruits, berries, fishes and game, and many more. If the dish had been written in historical documentation, you would most likely be able to find it here at LaSunJae. It is as if time had stood still all the while, and the Shilla Dynasty had never faded away through the tunnels of time.

5 things to do

1. Check out the exhibits and artifacts that LaSunJae has in its labyrinth of halls. It's like a museum that offers you a peek into how life was back then, when it was still a martriarchal society. Other than the household items of old - like irons and goblets, you would see old paintings of idyllic ladies being served by toiling man-servants.

2. Do visit during mid-year when you will be treated to traditional Korean music (Gugak) held free of charge at Bomun Outdoor Performance hall, just across the road. The Bomun Lake resort is best distinguished by its water mill from which the stream from Deokdongho lake flows through.

3. Whilst you would see rows and rows of purple and green cabbages lining the sidewalks during winter, during the spring season, you could see the whole walkway covered with the pink petals of cherry trees.

4. You must factor in some time for some serious sightseeing in the city hailed as "The Museum without Walls". Check out historical treasures such as Seokguram grotto, Bulguksa temple and Gyeongju Historic Areas are designated as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

5. Along the streets, you could chance upon the famous "Gyeongju bread" or "Hwangnam bread". This is the red-bean pastry first baked in 1939 and is now famous nationwide. You can't tell other sthat you have been to Gyeongju, if you have never tried this bread!

2 Don'ts

1. Don't attempt a trip to Lasunjae on foot, unless you have a working knowledge of Hangul that can be understood by the man-in the-street. The route can get a bit confusing without a trusty map or electronic translator.

2. Don't turn up at the restaurant demanding to be served. Without prior booking before making a physical trip down, you might be in for some surprise or a terribly long wait! Families with wailing kids in tow must be psychologically prepared to be looked upon with disdain by the other diners, who are there just for the rustic ambience.

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Published on 3/1/10