Wyn Tin Tut gets into the festival spirit in Taungpyone

To Myanmar With Love

View Photos (1) Image © 2009 To Myanmar With Love

Excerpted from To Myanmar With Love: A Travel Guide for the Connoisseur, available from ThingsAsian Press.

During most of the year, Taungpyone is a quiet town. The shrines at the local pagoda are kept locked, and few worshippers come to visit. But on the day my friends and I arrived, having flown to Mandalay and then hired a van to drive the remaining twenty kilometers, the road was packed with cars and buses on their way to the Taungpyone Festival, the biggest annual event in Myanmar's world of the nat and mediums. Beggars lined the route, and revelers threw money to them. Apparently, the pilgrims believe it's never too early to begin the festivities, and during their morning devotional prayers, they were far from silent, exuberantly and noisily teasing friends and strangers alike. It is believed that the spirits like to be made happy, thus all the wild celebrating. 

Buddhism is the main religion of Myanmar, but nat worship has been part of our culture for centuries. Some believe that the spirits worshipped by animists were once human beings who died violently. The Taungpyone Festival is held in celebration of two such spirit brothers: Min Gyi (Elder Prince) and Min Lay (Younger Prince).

The ancient story goes that they were the sons of a princess who lived in the woods at the foot of Mt. Popa. After a series of tragic events, both young men were executed. Upon hearing the news, their mother died of grief. Subsequently, all three became spirits, and shrines were erected in their honor. The princes' shrine is at Taungpyone, where they died, and their mother, Mai Wunna (also called Popa Mai Daw, or Goddess of Popa), has her shrine at Mount Popa.

According to custom, all of the country's mediums and their followers in Myanmar are compelled to attend the Taungpyone Festival. I have no idea what punishment the fierce spirit brothers would deal out to absentees, and no one wants to take the risk of finding out. Fortunately, the spirits do not mind non-believers like me coming to gape, as long as we refrain from making insulting jokes. My friends, although non-believers themselves, warned me of this rule, as they are fully aware of my smart-alecky mouth.

In recent years, transvestites have nearly taken over Myanmar's medium profession, and it was amazing to see so many of them in Taungpyone, strutting their stuff in full Revlon war paint, their collective perfumes wafting to the skies. As spirit mediums, they can dress up and be as campy as they wish, remaining free from ridicule. Though the majority of Buddhists may not be nat worshippers, they, like me, are not going to chance any bad luck by making fun of these followers.

During the first two days of the festival, people pay homage at the shrine, bringing offerings of flowers, scarves, and food to the gilded images of the two spirit brothers. The next two days feature elaborate ceremonies led by the descendents of the original guardians of the shrines. When we arrived, the crowds were so thick that we despaired of even laying eyes on the images, which have been in place since the eleventh century. Fortunately, we were staying with a medium, the distant cousin of one of my friends, and we were allowed to accompany him to see the images.

Mediums must show how successful they are in order to attract even more followers, and our host was so prosperous, he could afford to have a large wooden house that he used only during the short celebration season. The preparations he took prior to the ceremony lasted almost an hour, but they were fascinating to watch. A personal beautician took care of his makeup and hair, and another assistant laid out the court costume, which consisted of a white, long-sleeved jacket reaching to the hips and sewn with spangles; a turban covered with expensive orchids, which were carried from Mandalay in an icebox; and tons of glittery jewelry.

He was a magnificent sight as he grandly marched out to greet his wealthy and well-dressed followers. These believers, all dripping with diamonds, proudly followed him, bringing along offerings of soft drinks, cakes, and imported fruits. Our group trailed behind, looking sheepish and most unglamorous in our ordinary clothes.

Since he was a successful medium with a rich and powerful following, my friend's cousin got a slot to perform early in the evening. After the preceding dancer left, quickly appraising our medium's jewels, it was our turn. The traditional orchestra of drums, gongs, and cymbals played steadily, and we sat or stood on the edge of a carpeted floor while our hero minced over to the images, knelt, and paid obeisance.

As he stood up and began to dance, the music quickened, the thump of the drums and clash of cymbals pumping excitement into our veins. His arms moving in graceful sweeps, a look of enchantment on his face, eyes blissfully closed, he twirled ever faster. My heart pounded as the music hit my eardrums like mallets. The followers threw cash, hoping that would motivate the musicians to play longer. It did. Twenty minutes later, when the music finally ended, the medium gently slowed his dancing, composed his garments, and elegantly walked off stage. We followed, swaying dizzily.

Although there were to be some more rituals the following day, we returned that morning to Mandalay, since the main part of the ceremony, the dancing, was over. Busy with work, we could not party on, much as we would have liked to. On the drive back, my friend relayed a message to us from her medium cousin. The next time we visit, if we want to follow him in the procession, we'd better be wearing silk and diamonds. Apparently we had been a disgrace to him, not being draped with expensive jewelry. In that case, I reflected sadly, I would surely not be welcomed backstage at this spirit party of the year anytime soon.

FACT FILE:

Getting to Taungpyone
Taungpyone village is about twenty kilometers from Mandalay. Most tourists usually stay in Mandalay and drive over for the day. It's possible to rent cars or ride in the popular "share taxis." Rates depend upon the number of passengers. There is also a train running from Mandalay, if you want to celebrate en route with happy mediums.

Taungpyone Festival
The festival lasts for nine days and begins on the eighth Waxing Moon Day of Wagaung. According to the country's lunar calendar, this occurs sometime in August or early September. Shortly after, another annual festival called Yadana Gu is held for Mai Wunna in Amarapura.

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Published on 2/13/09