Kek Lok Si, Penang

From a distance, the majestic silhouette of the Kek Lok Si Temple commands respect from its onlookers, Buddhist devotees and curious tourists alike.

It stands out, a magnificent contrast, from the rugged terrain of the hills of Air Itam where it has been nestled since construction began in 1890.

My journey began at the foot of the hill, in a bustling marketplace in Air Itam. This lively zone narrows down into a winding staircase with a seemingly infinite stretch of stalls that sell all manner of treats, handicrafts and bric-a-brac on both sides, which snakes all the way up to the entrance of the temple.

It is hardly your usual nature trail up the side of a hill, but nevertheless makes for a similarly interesting exploit. Trudging up through the labyrinth of shops takes about half an hour, more or less, depending on one’s ability to curb shopping and hunger pangs.  I decided to take my precious time, realizing that browsing through the intriguing hodgepodge of merchandise is akin to a rich cultural experience in itself.

Halfway to the temple, I came across a sunlit opening, a welcome escape from the rather shadowy passageway and from all the tempting wares.  I caught sight of a circular pond teeming with turtles of all sizes aptly called "Sacred Turtle Pond".  The Chinese revere the turtle as a symbol of longevity, endurance, and strength.  Many Buddhists believe it is a deed of spiritual liberation to set a captive turtle free in this sacred pond; hence, the massive number of shell-backed creatures wading blissfully in the pond.

Upon reaching the temple’s gateway, there is a noticeable shift in ambiance. Stepping out of the chaotic marketplace and into the solemn interior of the temple is almost like crossing over into another realm.  There is an intoxicating scent of incense lingering in the air - calming the mind, relaxing the body, and uplifting the soul. Innumerable versions of Buddha grace the interior, adding a touch of otherworldly mystique to the place.

One of the chief attractions in Kek Lok Si is the gargantuan statue of the Goddess of Mercy or Kuan Yin, towering over the temple complex at 30.2 meters.  To get there in comfort, one must board an inclined lift; it functions like a cable car except for the fact that one operates it by pressing the “up” or “down” button just like an ordinary lift.  At the peak, the gigantic Kuan Yin casts an imposing shadow on her devotees as they bow before her blessed feet.   From her pedestal high on the hill, she conscientiously looks after the city stretched spectacularly before her eyes.

From a closer vantage ground, it is evident that the Kek Lok Si lives up to its reputation as the grandest and most beautiful Buddhist Temple in South East Asia.  The culminating point of the temple is the seven-storey pagoda called “Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas”, which stands regally at 30 meters – an exquisite synthesis of ancient Thai, Burmese, and Chinese architecture.  It took more than 20 years to build the temple complex, and it appears to be constantly evolving to this day, with renovations ongoing hither and thither, but the end result is consistently a magnificent work of art – a sprawling spiritual sanctuary, featuring a multitude of gardens, awe-inspiring shrines and thousands of sculptures to marvel at.

Back inside one of the many prayer halls, the surrealistic image of a Buddhist monk deep in transcendental meditation gave me a much-needed spiritual jolt; I lit an incense stick and watched intently as the smoke floated up to the heavens along with my prayers.  A day spent at the historically and spiritually prosperous Kek Lok Si temple is sure to leave an indelible impression on the visitor.

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Published on 4/10/08