Restaurant with a Difference

When visiting Vietnam it is worthwhile to include several days in the quaint old town of Hoi An on the central coast. Hoi An was a thriving international trading port for hundreds of years but the access river silted up in the late 19th century and the ships went elsewhere. As a result the town remained frozen in time until Vietnam opened up to tourism.

Hoi An Old Town has been declared a World Heritage site and motor vehicles are banned from streets of special interest. This makes sight-seeing much more comfortable and relaxed than in many other centres. The Old Town area is small enough to be covered on foot but there are plenty of cyclos if you prefer a more laid-back exploration.

Hoi An depends largely on the tourism trade and there is strong competition between the providers of services to tourists. It is quite common for restaurant employees to approach passing visitors in an endeavour to secure their custom, but the Hoai River Restaurant does not do this. You can even peruse their menu on the footpath stand without interference. It is a restaurant with a difference.

If you do decide to enter you will be courteously greeted by the owner, Mr. Tran Duc, who refuses to compromise family principles by hassling potential customers. In Hoi An street vendors come into some open-fronted restaurants to press their wares on tourists - seated customers can't evade them as easily as walkers. This is not allowed at the Hoai River Restaurant. You can eat your leisurely meal in peace.

The restaurant is small, simple and spotlessly clean. The menu is extensive - including Hoi An specialities such as cao lau and "white rose" (steamed shrimp artistically wrapped in rice paper) - and prices generally are lower than their competitors. The cooking is done by Mr. Tran Duc and his wife, and the tables usually are served by their pretty daughter. This truly is a family business and, as you would expect, the food is delicious.

Bia Hoi is a Vietnamese institution - a locally made light draught beer that must be drunk while fresh. The Hoai River Restaurant sells Bia Hoi for 3000 dong (US 20 cents) per large glass: a very enjoyable and economic way of slaking your thirst after a few hours sightseeing on a hot day.

If you are fortunate to eat at the Hoai River Restaurant at a quiet time you may find yourself, at the end of the meal, sharing a complimentary glass of Mr. Tran Duc's excellent homemade wine, followed by small cups of green tea delicately enhanced by lotus and jasmine. Eating at this restaurant is like dining at a family home.

The Hoai River Restaurant is located at 44 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street near the corner with Hoang Van Thu Street and one block back from the riverfront restaurant strip.

Bon Apetit !

* * * * *

Published on 6/12/04