Things to see in Hanoi - Temples

Ngoc Son Temple - The Restored Sword Lake

Geologists believe that the lake was once part of the Red River left behind when the river changed its course to where it is today. The change of the river's course took place a thousand years ago but it was named Restored Sword (Hoan Kiem) only five centuries ago. In the past the lake was called Luc Thuy (Blue Water) because the water remained blue throughout the four seasons. By the 15th century, however, the lake had acquired its name, "Restored Sword" through the following legend.

When Le Loi lived in Lam Son village, he received a sword that he used and always kept with him during the ten years of war against the Ming invaders. After he had defeated the enemy, he returned to Thang Long (Flying Dragon) where one day while boating on Blue Water Lake, two turtles suddenly emerged on the surface. He took out his sword and pointed it at them but they snatched the sword and took it underwater. Le Loi thought that God had given him the sword to fight against the Ming and now that the enemy had been defeated, God had taken it back. The King changed the lake's name to Hoan Kiem (the Restored Sword Lake).

Around 1738, Lord Trinh Giang set up Khanh Thuy Hall on a pearl island where he used to enjoy the summer breezes. By the 19th century, a pagoda dedicated to Buddha had been built on the Khanh Thuy Hall's grounds. Later this pagoda was turned into a temple dedicated to Van Xuong, a legendary figure who was the protector of literature and examinations, and to Tran Hung Dao, a Vietnamese hero who had defeated the Yuan invaders in the 13th century. In the temple, there is a statue of Quan Vu, en elite general of the Thuc Han dynasty of China who was famous for his loyalty and a statue of La To, famous for his practice of medicine.

In 1865, Nguyen Van Sieu, one of Hanoi's great cultural figures, took responsibility for the repairs of the entire area. On Doc Ton hill, he had a stone tower built in the shape of a writing brush. On the tower's body, he had engraved three words "Ta Thanh Thien" which mean writing on the blue sky.

Passing through But (Pen) Tower, you come to Nghien (ink') Tower, a curved gate on which a half-peach shaped inkstone was placed. On the Nghien Tower, there is a story engraved telling of the usefulness of the inkstone in terms of its philosophy. After the Nghien Tower is the Huc Bridge ("the place where morning sunlight focuses"). The other end of the bridge is the waiting-for-the-moon house (Dac Nguyet Lau) which is also the Ngoc Son Temple's gate. The temple has three main buildings; the front one is for reading prayers, the middle dedicated to Van Xuong and the last dedicated to Tran Hung Dao. Looking from a distance in the lake's southwest corner is Turtle Tower. This was built at the end of the 16th century and has no historical or aesthetic value, but because it has stood here for so many centuries, it has become significant to the people of today.

Bach Ma Temple ("White Horse" Temple)

It is now No. 40 Hang Buom Street. This temple is dedicated to Long Do (named Bach Ma), the protecting god of the capital Thanh Long. According to a book written in the 14th century, Long Do warned the country's ruler, Ca Bien, to respect him. He was frightened by the warning and constructed the temple dedicated to the god. Another legend added that when Ly Cong Uan settled down in the capital (1010), he attempted to fortify the city but the fortress repeatedly collapsed. He went to the temple to pray one morning and suddenly a white horse came out of the temple and ran around the area where the fortress was being built. It left its footprints before it returned to the temple and disappeared. King Ly built the temple along the trail of footprints and it remained solid. The King promoted Long Do to tutelary god, defender of Thang Long with the additional name of Bach Ma. The most valuable relic in this temple is the statue of Long Do made from copper which has been there since the 18th century.

Chem Temple

Chem Temple is in Thuy Phuong village, Tu Liem District near the southern bank of the present Thang Long bridge over the Red River. The temple is dedicated to Ly Than, namely Ly Ong Trong. According to legend, Ly Ong Trong was born in the second century BC and was sent to assist Emperor Tan Thuy Hoang (first emperor of the Chi'in Dynasty in China) and married the emperor's daughter.

According to legend, the Chem Temple was built around the 7th or 8th century on the site of Ly Ong Trong's residence. The character of the temple today came into existence in the 19th century. In the temple are two gilded wooden statues of Ly Than and his wife sculpted in 1888. In front of the temple is the vast Red River with gentle waves giving visitors a relaxed feeling.

Every year on the 15th day of May (Lunar Year) there is a festival held here with boat races and joyful worship.

Phu Dong Temple

Phu Dong Temple is in the Gia Lam District, the native land of a legendary hero, Dong, who defeated the An enemies in the time of King Hung VI (10th century BC). There are two main temples here.

Dong Temple (also called Thuong Temple) is big and beautiful and according to legend, was built by King Ly Thai To on the site of Dong's former residence immediately after the king moved to Thang Long (1010). The temple we see today, however, has two worshipping halls, a rear palace and a theatre built on the front pond for water puppet shows, all of which were constructed in 19th century. A fairly large statue of Thanh Dong sits in the middle of two lines of statues of subordinate lords.

Mau Temple is also called the Ha Temple built in 1693 on the outer dyke and is dedicated to Thanh Dong's mother. A distance from the Mau Temple to the northeast is the old garden owned by Thanh Dong's mother, in which there is a stele. According to legend, one rainy night, a giant trampled upon the vegetable garden and left a footprint.

The following morning, Dong's mother put her foot in it to see whether her foot could match that of the giant. It resulted in her becoming pregnant and giving birth to Dong.

Quan Thanh Temple (Holy Mandarin Temple)

The name of the temple is engraved in the gate's roof, "Chan Vu Quan." In fact, this name has only been used since 1840. Prior to that, it had been "Tran Vu Quan". "Quan" means a religion's place of worship.

The god Tran Vu is an image combining a legendary Vietnamese figure (who helped An Duong Vuong kill ghosts and devils while building Co Loa citadel) and a Chinese legendary figure that ruled the north. It was built during the Ly Thai To Dynasty (1010-28). In the temple, there is a black bronze statue of Tran Vu cast in 1667 that weighs over four tons and is about sixteen feet tall. The statue is in a sitting position and without shoes. Its right hand is supporting a sword that is entangled by a snake propping up on a turtle's back. It is clearly a Taoist image. The statue is a unique work of art displaying Hanoians' bronze casting technology and sculpture three centuries ago. In the worshiping hall, there is a small stone statue and according to a popular story, this is Trum Trong, a bronze craftsman who cast the Tran Vu statue. This was made by his pupils to remember their teacher's deeds.

Dong Nhan Temple

In inner Hanoi, in the Hai Ba Trung District is a place to pay homage to the first two Vietnamese heroines, Trung Trac and Trung Nhi who defeated the Han invaders in the first years of the new century.

Dong Nhan Temple was originally built on the Red River bank in the Dong Nhan area in the 12th century. In 1819, due to the collapse of the bank, the temple was moved to its current location. The construction of the temple was accredited to the following tale. It was not known from where the two sister statues came. One night in early February, the two statues were discovered floating in the Red River. The villagers used red cloth to bring the statues to the shore. Ly Anh Tong learned of the event and ordered a temple to be built on the very spot and dedicated to the statues. This was in 1142.

The two statues stand at the rear of the temple and wear hibiscus hats with their hands rising up to their faces. On both sides of the statues, there are twelve statues of female generals.

Thu Le Temple (Kneeling Elephant Temple)

Located on the ancient Thu Le botanical garden in Ba Dinh District, this temple was built in the Ly Thai Tong Dynasty (1028-54) near a big lake. The temple was dedicated to Linh Lang, who according to legend, was Prince Hoang Chan, son of King Ly Thai Tong. The prince took part in battle against the Tong invaders (of China) along the Cau River trench and was killed there. The tale written in the temple tells the story that Cau Nuong, King Ly's wife, once went to the West Lake to take a bath and was there confronted by a dragon, causing her to get pregnant. She gave birth to a prince whose body had 28 dragon scales and 7 lines of lights twinkling like pearls on his chest. When he grew up, he was asked to command the army and consequently defeated the invaders. The king wished to abdicate in favor of him but he refused and came to live in the temple. One day he was transformed into a black dragon entangled around a stone slab and disappeared into West Lake. The king ordered a temple built dedicated to the prince on the site where he had lived. In the temple, there are still two bronze statues and a big concave stone slab. At the temple's gate are two kneeling elephants, thus its name.

Nature has endowed Thu Le Temple with an elegant landscape of a blue water pond and green trees creating calm and harmony.

Van Mieu (Temple of Literature)

The Temple of Literature was built in October 1070 for the worship of sages and saints of Confucianism. Six years later (1076), the National College was established at the Temple of Literature and built at the rear. In the beginning, it was only for princes, but later was broadened to admit bright students nationwide.

The Temple of Literature is completely surrounded by brick walls while inside the complex there are walls separating it into five areas. The first area begins at the main gate on which the words "Van Mieu Mon" (Disciple of Temple of Literature) have been inscribed. Under the gate, there are two stone dragons bearing the style of the Le So Dynasty. The main path leading to Dai Trung Mon gate starts the second area where there are two small gates on both sides. The same path leads to Khue Van Cac (literary coterie to enjoy the beauty of Khue star). There are also two small gates on both sides of Khue Van Cac. The third section is formed by the area from Khue Van to Dai Thanh Mon. In the middle of this area, there is a square lake called Thien Quang Tinh (the clear Holy Pond) which is surrounded by walls.

On both sides are the two gardens of steles on which the names of those who attained Ph.D. degrees were engraved. In ancient times after years of study, students were able to participate in the first-degree examinations held once every three years. Those with the highest marks in this exam were named bachelors. A year later, these bachelors would come to the capital to take part in the first stage of the examinations. Those with the highest marks in this exam were called 1st Ph..D. Being a Ph.D., the scholar could then be promoted to mandarin. At present, there are 82 steles, the oldest of which notes the 1442 palace exam and the most recent, the 1779 exams. These are the most valuable relics of the Temple of Literature. Walking through Dai Thanh gate, we come to the fourth area. There is a large playground where two pavilions were built on both sides for the Confucian scholars to worship. At the rear of the playground is Dai Bai House, a palace with majestic architecture. There are various precious objects located here: a bell cast in 1768 on the left and on the right is a musical stone upon which a story is engraved telling of the usefulness of this musical instrument.

At the rear of the Dai Bai area is the Imperial College of the Le Dynasty, the then university. When the Nguyen Dynasty moved this college to Hue, this area was converted into a temple dedicated to Confucius' parents that was damaged during the war. The Temple of Literature is a place with a lot of diversity and points of interest for the scholar and tourist alike.

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Excerpted from Hanoi: Past and Present by Nguyen Vinh Phuc, The Gioi Publishers, Hanoi, 1995

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Published on 12/6/03