Kailash Pilgrimage Journal - Day 5


by Jeff Greenwald, May 27, 2003 | Destinations: China / Nepal / Tibet / Karnali River
Terraced fields along the Karnali River just outside of Muchu, Nepal.

Terraced fields along the Karnali River just outside of Muchu, Nepal.

Terraced fields along the Karnali River just outside of Muchu, Nepal.

en route to Kirmi

The Karnali is the color of elephant hide, a churning river that looks fully capable of cutting the gorge it flows through; of cutting it another thousand feet. I climb past a high stone cliff braided with waterfalls, all of them sluicing down from invisible heights to join the mighty Karnali, which receives their ablutions with a wrinkle.

Past Kirmi, to Sali ("Pine") Kola

My God, it has felt like a long, torturous day. My legs are like wood; my lungs, even at this comparably low altitude, seem ill-nourished. And my daypack, ludicrously small and uncomfortable for the weight I must carry, leaves stripes of sweated salt on the back of my green T-shirt. My face is sunburned, and I have a mild headache. Mountains loom on the far side of the Karnali, their black peaks -- about 15,000' high -- laced with snow. A gigantic eagle, or possibly a vulture, startled me by swooping low overhead, its pterodactyl wings creaking like the struts of a Kitty Hawk flying machine. I feel bone weary, out of shape, and as lonely as I've ever felt.

Strange days -- bring them to the path.

* * *

Some people met along the way: the schoolteacher Ramraj; the lovely elderly couple on the way to Dharapuri, ancient Thakuris who let me take their photo. The man gave me the warmest blessing when I left.

I try to talk with almost everyone I meet. I can answer their most basic questions, but that's about it for my Nepali. As for the children -- except for a brother and sister I met today, who showed me their colored pencils and tried to give me sweets -- the dialogue is fairly predictable: "Namasté!" "You give me one pen!"

The most difficult encounter is still with Ingeborge -- who I now feel must be mentally unstable -- and Norbu, whose utter disregard for his other client (me) is beyond inexcusable.

[ back ]

* * * * *