Swimming with turtles at Pulau Perhentian Kecil

Being born and raised in Malaysia, I must confess that I haven't explored much of my country until very recently.

I have been living in the United States for over 8 years and currently reside in San Francisco. Last month, I went home to Malaysia to celebrate my dad's 80th birthday and finally had a chance to go to the east coast of peninsula Malaysia with my eldest sister.

For the first time, my sister and I drove cross-country from Penang to Kuala Besut, which is at the east coast of Malaysia, in the state of Terengganu. Prior to our trip, we had heard so much about the beauty of the tropical islands of South China Sea and that Lonely Planet actually stopped over at Pulau Perhentian while they were shooting in Malaysia.

Also, Pulau Redang (which is south of Pulau Perhentian) was the featured location for a popular Hong Kong movie "Summer Vacation." Having watched the movie and amazed by the beauty of Pulau Redang, my sister and I knew that we were heading to paradise.

The drive from Penang to Kuala Besut turned out to be rather painless. It was a 6-hour drive, but the scenic views along the journey kept us excited and thrilled. Along the way, we passed by rolling green hills while early mist shifted into the valley. There was also a huge lake with breathtaking scenery. Malaysia is indeed a beautiful country.

At Kuala Besut, we hopped on a speedboat and after 30 minutes, we arrived at Pulau Perhentian Kecil. As the boat was approaching the shore, I already knew that I'd love it: a secluded bay with white sandy beach, swaying coconut trees, jungles, little Malay-style chalets dotting the shore, and crystal clear turquoise water.

Pulau Perhentian consists of two islands: Pulau Perhentian Kecil (Small Island) and Pulau Perhentian Besar (Big Island). Pulau Perhentian Kecil is definitely a backpackers' paradise, with cheaper accommodation, a very nice beach, and loads of European backpackers. Pulau Perhentian Besar is more up market and caters more to family vacationers.

For the next 2 days, my sister and I had 4 snorkeling trips around the islands. Snorkeling at Pulau Perhentian was the best experience I have had so far, compared to my last few snorkeling trips in Mexico and Thailand. The water was so clear that the visibility was practically 20 to 50 ft.

For the first time in my life, I saw a huge leatherback turtle. It was lying at the bottom of the sea when I spotted it. While I was swimming towards it, I was surrounded by a school of anchovies. The anchovies were so tiny it felt like there were millions of them swimming with me. It was truly an eye-opening experience.

I also came to know our snorkeling guide and he would lead me to all the nicest spots to check out the wide variety of colorful corals, sea cucumbers, and unknown tropical fishes. The underwater world was truly spectacular and indescribable.

All in all though, we had a wonderful time and enjoyed the trip. It was a nice discovery for me as I have been searching around the world for a tropical island paradise. There is only one regret; I did not bring an underwater camera with me while snorkeling. Next time, for sure.

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Published on 8/6/02