Yakatabune: A Summer Evening Aboard a Japanese Pleasure Boat

View Photos (11) Image © 2002 Rie Imanaka

Picture this: Sizzling tempura, beautiful geisha in kimono, a grand karaoke set, breathtaking night views of the city while gliding over the gentle waves of the river. You can enjoy it all in a space big enough for your entire group aboard a chartered yakatabune, or Japanese traditional roofed pleasure boat.

Yakatabune are one of the most popular and best-kept entertainment secrets in Japan. Yakata means roof and bune means boat, so its name describes exactly what it looks like - a boat with a roof. These narrow boats usually carry 20 to 100 passengers and are especially built for pleasure cruising down Japan's rivers. Excursions along Tokyo's Sumida River, Kyoto's Kamo River and Osaka's Yodo River are particular favorites.

Dating back to the Heian period (794-1185 A.D.), yakatabune were luxuries afforded only to the privileged daimyo and shogun. It was not until the Edo period that yakatabune became accessible to commoners. In fact, it was during the Edo period that the Japanese culture flourished, and now yakatabune have become a lasting tradition among true-blue Tokyoites.

Harumiya in Tokyo offers one of the best excursions in the vicinity. They are relatively new to the yakatabune business, launching their maiden voyage just 15 years ago. However, their top-notch operation and introduction of new services have quickly catapulted them to the top. Tours in English are one of their most outstanding features, winning them a wide range of international customers. Their passenger roster was especially colorful during the 2002 World Cup Soccer playoffs.

"We recently had onboard the referee, Mr. Pierluigi Collina," said Etsuko Yasuda, proprietor of Harumiya. "We also held a party for the press people last week which went really wild. One of them said it was the most fun they had in Tokyo. We also had supporters from Belgium celebrating their advance to the final rounds." Harumiya's popularity is demonstrated by the collection of celebrity autographs covering the wall of their cozy office in Minami Sunamachi.

During the cruise in which the accompanying photographs were taken, the staff of a multi-national law firm in Tokyo enjoyed an early summer cruise. Their two-and-a-half hour tour around Odaiba included a magnificent night view of the Rainbow Bridge and the Tokyo Tower. There were other yakatabune on the water that evening. We passed several ships whose passengers were reveling in the jolly mood amid the sounds of karaoke music.

We also sailed past the Fuji Television station, another after-dark favorite. The whole bay was transformed into a majestic carnival of lights, with the water illuminated by the reflection in delicate shades of purple. "It's absolutely gorgeous," commented one of the guests, relishing the sea breeze from the deck. Passengers had the mesmerizing scenery to themselves under the starlit sky.

Kaoruko Mano, Harumiya's English-speaking host conducted the tour while other crew members prepared tempura in the yakatabune galley. Harumiya is known for its seasonal seafood and traditional Japanese cuisine. "We also cater a variety of dishes according to customers' tastes." Maintaining a bilingual staff and offering flexible menus are some of the ways that Harumiya competes within the growing market of international guests.

However, keeping with tradition and improving services are not the only concerns. "We are responsible for the customer's safety," says Mr. Sekine, a crewmember. Some boisterous joyriders in the past could not contain themselves and actually jumped off the boat. "Keeping safe and having fun at the same time is not an easy job." The crew are prone to unexpected accidents as well. "One of our staff members once tripped and tossed a tray full of sashimi into the river."

Starting off with New Year celebrations, yakatabune are eagerly sought after for O-hanami (cherry blossom viewing) in spring, hanabi (fireworks) in summer, and bonenkai (year-end parties) in winter. Yakatabune are busy literally all year, excluding a brief lull in November.

As a result, there is no rest for the staff at Harumiya, which receives an average of 200 calls a day. Their four large yakatabune are in full swing, serving about 30,000 passengers in a year. "But we love it," says Sekine, who decided to go full-time after starting out as a part-time employee. "We all get hooked on these boats once we ride them. I think boats create the sense of an "escape from reality," because you physically detach yourself from land."

The traditional yakatabune cruise can be enjoyed any time of the year. At Harumiya, the boats are fully equipped with all the amenities. Fares start at 10,000 yen, including a full Japanese dinner and open bar. Geisha are available upon request. Horigotatsu (under-the-table foot warmers built into the floor) are also available for passengers who need a little extra warmth.

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For a yakatabune agency near you, call the local Yakatabune Association or travel agency.

In Tokyo (around Tokyo Bay):

Harumiya
6-17-12 Higashisuna
Koto-ku, Tokyo
Tel 03-3644-1344
Fax 03-3644-5445
E-mail: info@harumiya.co.jp
Web site: Harumiya (English available)

Yakatabune Tokyo Association
Tel 03-3666-6811
Fax 03-3666-6883
Web site: Yakatabune Tokyo Association

In Osaka (along the Yodo river):

Osaka Yakatabune
1-21-10 Tenma
Kita-ku, Osaka
Tel 06-6354-7011
Fax 06-6354-7112
E mail: yakatbne@smile.ocn.ne.jp

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Published on 7/15/02