Kuching - A Brooke Legacy

View of the Astana from the Waterfront.

View Photos (1) Image © 2002 Jaswinder Kaur

I have been visiting Kuching, the capital city of the Malaysian state of Sarawak, for as long as I can remember. My maternal grandfather and grandmother migrated to Kuching in the 1930s. An early memory is that of visiting the Sarawak Museum, a stately building commissioned by Charles Brooke the Second White Rajah of Sarawak and built in 1891. It stands on landscaped gardens. The museum houses the ethnographic collections of Sarawak. I remember walking up and down the 2-storey building, looking at the various displays. After touring the museum, my family and I had a stroll in the gardens; there was a gazebo and a trickling fountain. We had chendol, a delicious cold concoction of palm sugar, coconut milk and sago.

Kuching has changed significantly in the last 20 odd years. Though the city has developed and extended its reach considerably, very much evident when the plane comes in to land at the airport, certain aspects of it remains the same. Specifically, the lovely old colonial buildings, a legacy of Brooke rule (1839 - 1946) and the old quarters of the city, still the place to go for traditional handicrafts and local produce. Kuching city centre itself is compact and most of the colonial landmarks are within walking distance. One can easily take morning strolls and explore the landmarks. Morning and evening strolls are highly recommended because the tropical sun can be taxing! There are a few landmarks that no visitor to Kuching should miss.

Kuching Waterfront

One of this is the waterfront area by the Sarawak River, an excellent starting point for exploring the city. Formerly this 1 km stretch was home to many warehouses, which were closely associated with the mercantile trade of this city. In the early 1990s this stretch was redeveloped to serve as a recreational venue to both locals and tourists alike. The design of the waterfront has incorporated traditional Iban cultural motifs, evident in the mosaic tiles on the pavements. There are also numerous rotunda rest points along the way. Mid-way down the stretch sits the Hornbill fountain, a modern steel sculpture, depicting Sarawak's national bird, the hornbill. Its play of lights is rather arresting at night. Just further down, on the left -hand side is a building, which houses the Chinese Museum. Members of the Chinese community built this building in 1912.

The waterfront also features an open-air eatery and a theatrette. The theatrette is housed in the former Sarawak Steamship Company warehouse. The tourist information office is also situated here. Cultural activities are held here especially during Gawai (the native harvest festival) in June each year and Cat City Festival, held annually in August. The stroll along waterfront will bring you to the Square Tower sandwiched between two rows of fountains. This Tower built in 1879 during Charles Brooke's reign (1868-1917) has served amongst other things as a prison and as a dancing hall in the past. Presently it is a museum showcasing its rich history. Outside of the Square fort is a 3 storey high viewing tower, which offers a panoramic view of the waterfront, and views across the Sarawak river, the Malay villages, the Astana and Fort Magherita. This view is particularly memorable during early mornings and evenings.

Astana and Fort Magherita

Across the waterfront on the northern bank of the Sarawak River lie two other Brooke legacies and Kuching landmarks, the Astana (palace) and Fort Magherita. The former served as the residence of the Brooke Rajahs. It was built in 1870 by Rajah Charles Brooke. It has a landing access to the river whereupon the Rajahs welcomed visitors. Now, the Astana is the home of the governor of Sarawak. The latter was a built in 1879 to defend Kuching from marauding pirates. Currently it is the Sarawak Police Museum. Its steep spiral staircase, made of local belian or ironwood, is worth a climb. Walking around the ramparts of this fort whilst taking in the view of Kuching town is an experience in itself. The Astana's not open to the public but the Fort is. There are 2 ways of reaching the Fort, the speedier and more adventurous way, native style or the longer route of a conventional taxi via the Tunku Abdul Rahman Bridge. Tambangs or river-taxis are for hire along the various piers. The fare for the tambang's is approximately M$1 per person (negotiable). This mode of transportation's popular with the locals living on the northern bank of the Sarawak River.

Courthouse

The Courthouse, built in 1874, is another landmark. Now that the courts have moved to their new home across the river to Petrajaya, this building is vacant, awaiting a new lease of life no doubt. The layout of the courthouse complex is U-shaped. The middle portion has a walkway, which is a busy thoroughfare. Past this portico, and you are in the midst of traffic and numerous shophouses selling a variety of goods. Yet another landmark is the Pavilion, a square building built in 1909. It served as the General Hospital until 1947.It was renovated recently and will soon be home to the textile museum. As Kuching city centre is so compact, one can easily walk from the waterfront to the Sarawak Museum. Meandering through these shophouses one eventually reaches the Sarawak Museum. On route to the museum, you will past through India Street, now pedestrianised. It's called India Street because of the concentration of Indian traders selling all things Indian from spices to cloth. There also shops selling sundries, textiles, jewellery and souvenirs.

Other Brooke architectural heritage sites are the General Post Office built in 1931, and the Round Tower built in 1886. The purpose of this tower is a bit of a mystery. Some sources states that it was built as a fort but it eventually became a dispensary. Both are within walking distance from the Waterfront.

The Sarawak Museum

The Sarawak Museum houses one of the most comprehensive ethnological and natural history collections of Borneo, a valuable resource to academics. Over the years, the collection of the museum has expanded and a second wing was built across the road in the last century to accommodate the collections. The second wing showcases the various ethnic groups of Sarawak, the Ibans, Melanaus, Bidayuhs, Orang Ulu and Chinese. There's an impressive exhibition of Chinese pottery, which highlights the historical trading link between China and the natives of Sarawak.

A few days in Kuching are sufficient only for a cursory glance. Though Sarawak has plenty to offer, its Kuching that is alluring to me. Its laidback charm, its friendly people, the sights, the sounds and the smells engages the senses to give a delightful experience. The old colonial buildings and the backdrop of the Sarawak River hark back to a romantic past-a time of rajahs, pirates and headhunters! There's so much to explore and rediscover again-guess its time to pack my bags and visit grandma!

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Source and for more info, visit
http://www.sarawaktourism.com/
http://www.sarawak-online.com/colonialpast/roundtower.html

Recommended reads:
The White Rajahs of Sarawak by Robert Payne
My Life in Sarawak by Margaret Brooke, the Ranee of Sarawak
Queen of the Head-hunters by Sylvia, Lady Brooke, the Ranee of Sarawak

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Text and Photo © 2002 - Jaswinder Kaur

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Published on 6/20/02