A (Durian) Puff Piece

Durian - The King of Fruit.

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You can't come to South East Asia without trying durians. Unfortunately, many visitors from the West have been giving this treat a miss due to their objection to this luscious fruit's rather pungent aroma.

Durians are known in Singapore as the King of Fruit and local bakeries have been inspired to concoct a host of delectable cakes and pastries that should make sampling durians just a tad easier on sensitive noses. Just check out the delightful range available from local stores.

Durian cake - Not to be confused with the durian kueh (trans. durian cake) that is a sweet and sticky steamed 'cake' found in Malaysia. Singaporean bakers have given this Asian fruit a Western twist by giving your standard sponge cake a light creamy filling of durian flesh. Local gourmets will only eat those that use pure durian flesh but the cautious may prefer to try those mixed with fresh cream for a less overpowering taste. My vote for the best durian cake goes to Jane's Cake Station (located in Jalan Kayu).

Durian boat - Local foodies have been having fun with the sandwich for years. A favourite from my childhood is the ice cream sandwich, consisting of a slab of ice cream between two slices of bread (still available from some roadside ice cream vendors). The durian boat is a variant on this these, using a round sponge cake cut sandwich thin and folded in two to hold a creamy durian filling. For a good durian boat, try Emicakes (various locations).

Durian roll - Yep folks, we've been experimenting with French crepes too. The durian roll is simply a crepe filled with durian flesh or cream and rolled into a neat little 'spring roll' like package. A good friend swears by the ones from Angie the Choice (various locations).

Durian tart - This is the latest durian pastry in the market and currently only sold by Emerald Bakery in Toa Payoh Central. Reactions to this one are kinda mixed. Some think it's great, but others are put off by the fact that the pastry shell is rolled in desiccated coconuts. If you pop down to try some for yourself, opt for the mixed tray which will give you a piece of each tart (durian, chempadak and corn) that are the house speciality.

My all time favourite durian pastry however, must go to the durian puff. Partly because I've always been a sucker for profiteroles and also because they're bite sized snacks that are perfect when on the run. Go on, read my picks and pans and try them for yourself when you're in Singapore!

Hans (Novena Square, Food Junction)

Durian eclair ($1 each)
OK, so I'm fudging a little. This is not strictly a puff, but the eclair works on the same principle of a filled choux pastry. I bought three eclairs, which were unassumingly packed in a clear plastic box. Nothing fancy, but not lacking in presentation at the same time. Hans' durian eclair is a sugary sweet and appetising concoction. It is filled with durian flavoured fresh cream which is light on the palate (and hopefully on the waistline as well). This durian puff will appeal to those who like a hint of durian in their baked goods rather than a full hit. The choux pastry was adequate, but the nit-picky may recommend more butter in the batter.

Emicakes (Toa Payoh Lorong 1, Block 111)

Silk Cream Durian puff ($4.50 for a box of 6)
These durian puffs were fantastic! Filled with creamy durian puree, the taste and aroma was full bodied. The choux pastry was soft, a bit too soft for my liking, although other tasters found it absolutely perfect. The puffs come prettily packaged in a floral box with each durian puff sitting in its own little plastic compartment making it a tempting treat to take to the folks back home. I don't recommend this however as the aroma is fairly strong and durians are (as a general rule) not allowed on aeroplanes.

D24 Durian puff ($10.80 for a box of 12)
I said that the Silk Cream puffs were fantastic, but the D24 Durian puffs are just out of this world. The D24 grade of durians is the best quality that you can get. Some people think it's a pity that this top-grade stuff is used on pastries, but I think that the proof is in the puff. So Sedap!! (trans. Delish!!)

Angie the Choice (Novena Square, Level 1)

Durian puff ($2.50 each)
A whopper of a durian puff. At approximately 10cm in diameter, this was easily the biggest I've ever come across. There's no stinging on the filling here and every bite has an ample amount of rich cream. The filling is, however, a mix of butter cream with small bits of durian flesh, the lower grade kind. I'm not a huge fan of butter cream so I don't really care for this one. If you don't mind the heavy cream and prefer to ease into the durian flavour, this may be one you'd like to try.

Donut Confectionery (Hougang Street 21, Block 204)

Durian puff ($2.50 for a box of 5)
You have the option of picking up just one puff for just fifty cents, but I suspect that one taste will have you buying the set of five (packed in a clear plastic box). This durian puff had a sweet scent and the filling was a delicate shade of yellow. There's custard mixed with the durian flesh, which makes this a great choice for first-timers. The pastry was a bit too soft, indicating an overly generous hand with the butter. Although this may not be the number one choice of local foodies, I think that it's the best choice for those feeling a little shy of the full durian aroma.

Polar Puffs & Cakes (C.K. Tang, Basement 1)

Durian puff ($2 for 2)
For the price you pay you get two normal sized puffs sharing a foil cup. I have to say that the durian puffs were rather disappointing considering Polar was once rather well known for their quality pastries. The choux pastry was dry and the fresh cream filling so white and lacking in durian flavour, you wouldn't know it was a durian puff if someone didn't tell you. The only saving grace was the light dusting of icing sugar, which gave the puff a hint of flavour. Frankly, this one's just a complete waste of time.

All prices quoted in Singapore dollars and are (naturally) subject to change. Hey I don't run these places, I just write about them!

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Published on 4/23/01