Singapore

Singapore is so...clean! Man, is it clean! The highways running into the city center are lined with landscaped and beautiful tropical trees on either side. The sidewalks everywhere are spotless. The subways are not only air-conditioned and efficient, but also without a trace of graffiti, graft or grime. No "John Loves Mary" on the walls, here. Well, okay, the waterway along Boat Quay and Clarke Quay looks a bit polluted and is littered with the occasional piece of floating trash, but come on...let's not go overboard. Compared to the world's great cities, Singapore stands out as a shining example of metropolitan cleanliness.

For this and a host of many other reasons, Singapore is the envy of Southeast Asia and, perhaps, even the rest of the world. With great fanfare, Singapore was recently granted "developed nation" status. Indeed, this island city-state, at 224 square miles (smaller than the land mass of New York City), has achieved remarkable economic progress and prosperity in a relatively short period of time. This is evident to a visitor of Singapore in so many ways: Orchard Road, the "Fifth Avenue" of Singapore, is dotted with only the most exclusive shops and boutiques; cars, though restricted and prohibitively expensive, nonetheless abound, with no shortage of Mercedes and BMWs; the cost of an overnight stay, a dinner for four, or even a few groceries, is unforgiving. Moreover, Singaporeans just seem to exude a confidence not seen in other parts of the world--the walk is a self-assured stride, the look is a knowing one, and the general "feeling " is more or less one of hope and promise for the future.

Of course, all this is no accident. The Republic of Singapore have put policies and actions into place for many years so that its people would benefit and the country would develop rapidly. Careful planning came from the very top, and Lee Kuan Yew, who was Singapore's Prime Minister from 1957 to 1990, was largely responsible for educating the masses (virtually all Singaporeans are bilingual, speaking both English and Mandarin fluently) and bringing on commercial success, which was based in large part on exports and the country's important role as the world's largest port. Despite criticisms from overseas that the government has resorted to near-authoritarian measures (at worst) to excessive coddling (at least) to achieve its goals, Singapore has persevered. The visitor is not really inconvenienced by the country's many rules and regulations. Sure, chewing gum is not allowed and many relatively minor offenses, such as jaywalking, littering or smoking indoors, are punishable with hefty fines.

Singapore, in fact, is a delight to visit precisely because it is so neat and orderly. Not only that, Singapore has a rich and unique history, reflected in many interesting sights scattered throughout the city and the many different peoples that comprise its population. Once an integral part of Malaya (now Malaysia), Singapore was formerly a British colony, serving as a vital hub for the lucrative spice trade. Even before the British, Singapore's value as a seaport was exploited by other European colonizers, such as the Portuguese and the Dutch, and served as a calling for immigrants from China, India, Indonesia and the Malay Peninsula. Today, Singapore has a population comprised of ethnic Chinese (77 percent), Malays (15 percent) and Indians (8 percent), making for a large variety of lively festivals, extraordinary architecture and delectable foods and cuisine.

It is a fascinating place to explore, representing the very best of modern Southeast Asia. It boasts a bevy of some of the world's finest hotels, restaurants and shops. It is compact, with all worthwhile sights and activities easily accessible on foot or via the extremely efficient public transportation system. It has a tropical, always moderate climate. And it is sparkling clean. What more could you ask for in a vacation?

The Colonial Past

One place all these visitors will no doubt have seen in Singapore is the venerable Raffles Hotel. Indeed, no visit to Singapore is complete without a visit to Raffles, so one may just as well start there, even if one is not staying there (rooms start at about S$600, or US$480 per night). Raffles was built in 1887 by the Sarkies brothers, famous Armenian hoteliers. It is consistently ranked one of the finest hotels in the world.

These days, Raffles is just as much shopping haven as it is overnight heaven. The Raffles complex is massive, taking up an entire city block, and is done up in old colonial architecture, white pillars and all. Fancy boutiques, jewelry stores, cake shops and delis line the sidewalk bringing it into the 21st century and making for a fun stroll.

More fun is a duck into the old-standard Long Bar at Raffles. When my wife Sharon and I first visited Singapore, this was our first course of action, and it was very worthwhile. This enormous bar is a blast through the past, and the ambiance is very much old jungle. The "feel" of the place is as if you've just stepped off of the safari jeep--rattan chairs, peanut shells strewn about on the floor and waiters in pin-striped shirts and khakis.

More colonial charm and architecture can be witnessed south of Raffles, but still in the center of town, at the impressive St. Andrews Cathedral. Built in Gothic style and completed in 1863, it stands proud and tall in the middle of a large, green city lawn. Its white spire is quite a contrast to the super-modern, super-tall buildings that make up most of Singapore's skyline.

Actually, although Singapore is in many ways more modern than even most U.S. cities, there are still a few "reminders" from the past that make the place interesting and unique. One example: trishaws. Few in numbers, these human transportation machines--comprising a bicycle with a carriage in back-- nonetheless operate in and around town, and can be a novel way to get around.. Frankly, an air-conditioned cab or bus is more comfortable, even cheaper, but if you've never ridden one, now's the time to try; they seem to be phasing out.

Off Orchard Road

Colonial architecture and the odd trishaw give a taste of the Singapore of years past, but the heart of the city these days is really on Orchard Road, a virtual Mecca for top-of-the-line shopping in Southeast Asia.

This street has everything. And I mean everything. The main shopping hub stretches for a couple of kilometers or so, and is lined with all sorts of exclusive and well-known shops and restaurants. In a way, it's as if you never left the U.S. Over here is The Warner Brothers Studio store, selling Bugs Bunny T-shirts and Tweety Bird coasters. Over there is the film-memorabilia-museum-cum-restaurant Planet Hollywood, which opened to great fanfare with the help of co-owner Sylvester Stallone about a year ago. This way is a Mrs. Fields cookies outlet. That way a Denny's.

Of course, there are aspects of Orchard Road that make it decidedly Singaporean, too. Of particular note, aside from the remarkable cleanliness, is the wire mesh that acts as a partition between the sidewalk and the main road, making jaywalking an impossibility.

Some of the stops we made were a bit off the beaten path. For example, in the basement of Sogo department store (notably, Sogo is one of the many Japanese department stores in Singapore; Isetan and Takeshimaya being two others on Orchard Road alone) we found an excellent cake shop called Miki Ojisan No Mise, which in Japanese means Uncle Miki's Shop. The specialty in this tiny hole-in-the-wall bakery is cheesecake, and Miki cranks them out every ten minutes. Unlike the dense and creamy texture we're used to back home, however, these cheesecakes are light and fluffy, and actually taste a bit like cheese (not cream cheese).

The huge shopping complexes are also something to marvel over. Ngee Ann City is the most grand, with seemingly endless floors, shops and boutiques. A good many of the clothes and fashion goodies displayed in the Southeast Asian versions of Elle, Marie Claire and other women's magazines are to be found at shops in Ngee Ann, or so Sharon tells me. Tangs is another huge department store with its own complex, as is the Paragon complex (which houses Sogo) and Centrepoint.

All this was a bit overwhelming to me, so I convinced my wife--after a few "successful" shops--that what we really needed was to stop for a nice lunch, and then settle in for a long afternoon drinking session. Lucky for us, we found a few excellent spots just off Orchard Road.

To nourish the body, we lunched at The Olio Dome Cafe, in the Lane Crawford Building. This hip restaurant with a trend-setting crowd reminded me of New York's Upper West Side, especially since the menu included things like pumpkin ravioli, foccacia-bread sandwiches and cappuccino specialties.

Then, to feed the soul, we headed to Muddy Murphy's, a terrific (and typical) Irish pub. Muddy Murphy's is just one of several Irish joints that have sprouted up over Singapore recently, and--judging from the Saturday afternoon crowds--is certainly one of the more popular. Aside from the Kilkenny's and Guinness on tap, we were particularly impressed with the ambiance, which was pure Dublin. Irish music, wooden booths and a dimly lit interior all contributed the sense we were in the land of luck, not an island just few degrees north of the equator. The chips (fries) and crab dip dish were especially noteworthy.

At the other end of Orchard Road was a place called No. 5 Emerald Hill, located right by Peranakan Place, off of the huge Centrepoint mall. This whole area along Emerald Hill Road, tucked behind the brouhaha of Orchard Road, is a charming display of old Peranakan architecture, which is characterized by ornately decorated terraced houses. The Peranakans, also known as "Straits Chinese," were the very first Chinese settlers of the Malay Peninsula and Singapore, and developed an exceptionally unique culture that mixed Malay and Chinese customs, language and cuisine.

No. 5 Emerald Hill carries the quiet charm of Emerald Hill Road right on inside. Antique Oriental furnishings and artifacts abound, and the feel of the place--at least in the afternoon--is relaxed and cozy. In fact, there are a couple of spots at the back of the bar where you can stretch out on a few pillows and while the hours away. Of course, that's precisely what we did, although it felt as if we were in an opium den of old, especially after a few Red Bull margaritas (a house specialty) made us a bit slow and sleepy. In the evenings, this place gets a little more active, with live jazz and a hip, expatriate crowd.

Around Chinatown

While Emerald Hill Road and Peranakan Place offer the visitor a glimpse into the old Chinese traditions and architecture, Singapore's Chinatown provides an even better picture.

In contrast to the modern, high-class sophistication of Orchard Road, Chinatown has character, charisma and a down-to-earth commercial pulse. Its low-rise terrace houses, though renovated and often used for fancy new boutiques and cafes, are still colorful reminders of the past. Its streets are lined with shops that sell an incredible range of goods, from expensive southeast Asian artifacts and furnishings to traditional Chinese medicinal herbs, from tacky tourist souvenirs to exotic tropical fruits.

Visiting Chinatown, we started our tour with a morning feast of dim sum (steamed dumplings). The restaurant we had picked was by no means fancy; in fact, it was virtually an outdoor hawker stall, where self-service was required. Still, the pork buns were spicy and delicious, the crab sticks were tender and nice, and the vegetable fillings were fresh and flavorful. To cap it off, we relished the fried, sweet, sesame-covered bean-paste balls.

We then set out on a walking tour of Chinatown. This included stops at the many temples and shrines that are scattered about the area. One of the most interesting and spectacular of these was the Thian Hock Keng Temple (or the Temple of Heavenly Happiness), apparently the oldest in Singapore, on Telok Ayer Street. This temple, originally on the waterfront, was dedicated to Ma-Cho-Po, Queen of Heaven and protector of sailors, who came here to give thanks after a safe voyage.

After our stroll through Chinatown, we headed up toward Clarke Quay (see below), where we boarded a boat for a ride along the Singapore River. This tourist attraction of all tourist attractions was quite a bit of fun, actually, and fairly informative, too. A pre-recorded tape points out things like the landing site of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the prominent British governor, and the half-lion, half-fish "Merlion," an unofficial symbol of Singapore that guards the all-important harbor. At one point during the piped-in narration, it is mentioned that the river water is so clean, it is virtually drinkable. We all looked down and saw quite a bit of rubbish floating in the water (so odd in Singapore!), and thus had to disagree.

The "Quays"

Slightly grimy though it may be, the Singapore River is actually quite a nice waterway to look out over, and two developments on the bank of the river have capitalized on this fact.

On the south side, closer to the mouth of the river, is Boat Quay. Boat Quay can best be described as a hyper, bigger, Singaporean version of Pleasure Island--you know, the night spot at Disneyworld in Orlando. Every conceivable type of restaurant, bar and entertainment outlet exists on this strip of converted shop houses. If you go during the day, you can actually witness the charm of the place. More likely, however, one goes to Boat Quay at night, and the charm is overshadowed by booming dance music and loads of drunken bankers (Singapore's financial district is right near-by).

The raucousness at Boat Quay never ceases to amaze me. On our first trip to Singapore, Sharon and I were delighted to see such activity and liveliness, as the night life at home in Kuala Lumpur is relatively sedate. But subsequent visits to Boat Quay have almost been too overwhelming, with every bar or disco filled to the brim with sweaty party-goers. By 1 a.m., the human spillage into the street is so chronic that I'm reminded of the scene at the French Quarter in New Orleans. Perhaps to chill the nerves a little, we've enjoyed Harry's, a jazz pub at the end of the strip.

Clarke Quay, on the north side of the river and a bit more inland, has a different feel altogether, even though the overall concept of the place is quite similar to that of Boat Quay. The cafes, restaurants and bars here seem to have a touch more class. Like at Boat Quay, you can dine outdoors, too, which can be quite pleasant. In fact, Clarke Quay has a whole row of outdoor "hawker" stalls serving up local specialties like satay, as well as imported favorites like falafel and shish-kebob. One place we've frequented after an outdoor meal is J.P. Bastiani, a classic (and classy) wine bar. There's an open-air courtyard in the back where you can sip on a Chianti or cabernet and reflect on the day. It's also a decent restaurant, serving continental cuisine.

Outside City Center

Wining and dining is not the only way to have a great time at night in Singapore. In fact, one of the most fascinating and worthwhile excursions on the island is a trip to the zoo! But not just any old zoo. Singapore is home to the world's first, only and amazingly popular "Night Safari."

The concept of this place is fairly simple: an "open" zoo, like San Diego's, ( i.e. no cages) but open only at night, so that viewing is done in relative calm and silence and nocturnal animals can be seen in action. The whole park is covered with huge tropical trees, so it really does feel as if you're on safari in the jungle. An open-air tram snakes you around the park in the dark to the various animal viewing grounds, which are lit by an unobtrusive artificial light. Among the highlights are the sleek Southeast Asian tigers, the proud African lions and the shy and lazy hippopotamuses.

You can also get off the tram and walk around the park along various trails. We had a lot of fun doing this as well. Actually, we had gotten to the park a bit late, so the animals were getting ready for feeding time, which occurs just as the place closes at midnight. As we walked by the leopards, we heard this ferocious roaring and screeching coming from right inside the fenced-off area. It was so loud and ominous (and close!) that many patrons, including ourselves, ran past the display in horror. Soon after the leopards, the trail led us to the fierce jungle cats, who were also howling away. A passing zookeeper assured us this roaring and howling was completely normal behavior just before "dinner." Not so normal, to us anyway, was the proximity of the edge of the area where the jungle cats were situated and our walking path. (There is no fence.)

We stayed at the Night Safari for only a couple hours, but you can really make a whole evening of it. In fact, there are a couple of eateries at the park, one of which is located within viewing distance of the giraffes. The night Safari was definitely a Singapore highlight for us and is highly recommended.

Although the Night Safari is the best reason to head out of Singapore's city center, there are also other attractions in and around the island, such as theme parks, golf courses and nature reserves. Sharon and I have visited the Japanese and Chinese gardens out in Jurong, which serve as a pleasant get-away, especially if you enjoy the serenity of such places. We were lucky to have gone during the Mooncake Festival which, in addition to featuring mooncakes, also includes the lighting of lanterns. Thus on display at the Chinese garden were huge, intricate displays of various lanterns, some silly (such as the huge pig lanterns), but some truly beautiful.

Sentosa Island

Also outside of city center, but closer than the Night Safari or Jurong, is Sentosa Island.

Sentosa dubs itself as "a world where the fun never ends," which should give a clue as to what it's all about. Sentosa is all about golf (both real and miniature), water slides, adventure rides, musical fountains and more. It's a great place for the kids, or at least the kid in you.

Actually, getting to Sentosa can be half the fun. Beginning at Mount Faber, the top of a steep hill on the main island, is a cable car ride that takes you directly to the much smaller Sentosa island. The view from the cable car, which rides as high as 90.8 meters above sea level, is mostly of Singapore's enormous port and, in the distance, tall skyscrapers. The ride isn't recommended for those afraid of heights, but is certainly fun otherwise.

Once on Sentosa, we headed straight to Underwater World, apparently Asia's first and largest tropical fish "oceanarium." The unique aspect about Underwater World is that, unlike an ordinary aquarium where you revolve around the fish tank, the fish tank revolves around you! Not quite, but the feeling is the same. You enter the underwater observatory by stepping onto a moving platform, which then weaves its way under the tank, which of course is made of see-through glass. Thus, the sensation is as if the fish are swimming on top of you, and around you on all sides--almost as if you were in the water with them. It is by all means the most remarkable aquarium I have ever seen. Making the trip even better was the fact that we were able to see the fish being fed. As the diver spread the goodies around, sharks, eels and other tropical behemoths swarmed around our heads.

That was it for us on Sentosa, but some people stay for days, especially since some of Singapore's nicest hotels are located here.

Singapore has got just about everything. To those of us from America some may conclude that it's an awful lot like home. Indeed, you can even get a freshly baked bagel with cream cheese (at a place called Brooklyn Bagels) if you've got a hankering for one. On the other hand, it's unlikely you'll find a restaurant on Main Street where a resident herbalist prescribes a dish cooked with special medicinal herbs to cure your ills (which happens at the Imperial Herbal Restaurant in the Metropole Hotel). Anyone who brings a good sense of adventure is bound to have a good time in Singapore.

Published on 6/1/97