Kuala Lumpur: City of Contrasts and Heat

Kuala Lumpur, downtown skyline

View Photos (4) Image © 2000 Malaysia Travel & Tourism Board

Any visitor to Kuala Lumpur will be struck by its many contrasts. On one hand, it is home to enormous modern projects, such as the Petronas Towers, which loom large over the city. On the other hand, there is still plenty of colonial charm reflected in many older buildings, as well as peaceful, understated architecture seen at some of the several mosques scattered about the town. The simple, but ubiquitous, outdoor hawker stalls -- serving up a variety of local specialties for under US$1-- are still generally the desired eatery for most Malaysians. At the same time, one can hardly go five minutes into lunch without hearing someone's hand-phone go off at the next table: another important business deal, no doubt...

And while Malaysia is predominantly a Muslim country, a particularly popular nighttime entertainment option in town is the lavish drag show, reputedly some of the finest displays this side of New York or Sydney... Visitors, especially those from a part of the world where there are four seasons, will also be struck by the heat and humidity. It's crippling and it's constant. Kuala Lumpur, usually referred to as just "KL," certainly isn't a "walking" city, not just because it is sprawling and has few good public transport options, but mainly because a few minutes in the midday sun will leave you soaking in sweat and begging for air-conditioning. Located roughly three degrees north of the equator, KL maintains tropical climate throughout the year, which basically means this: it's hot during the day, it rains in the afternoon, and it's moderate and bearable in the evening. Most Malaysians, wisely, stay indoors during the day -- that is, if they're not stuck in traffic.

But the many contrasts and the warm weather (especially if you're looking to escape cold) are part of what make Kuala Lumpur such an excellent city to visit. Indeed, KL is one of the most fascinating cities in Southeast Asia. As the capital city of Malaysia, as well as its largest with a population of over one million, it is to some extent a reflection of the rest of the country. Malaysia is comprised mainly of Malays, who make-up approximately 60 percent of the population; Chinese, who represent about 30 percent of the country; and Indians, who account for roughly the rest. Thus in KL, as in the rest of Malaysia, one will witness extraordinary diversity -- in customs, religious beliefs, dress, cuisine, even language, although English is widely spoken.

Unlike much of the rest of Malaysia, however, KL moves at an extremely fast pace. In fact, it always has. Kuala Lumpur, which literally means the "muddy river mouth" -- a reference to the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers -- became prominent with the discovery of bountiful tin ores in the early 19th century, and has quickly grown from mining town to world-class city. Today, like other countries in the region, Malaysia is experiencing phenomenal economic development. In KL, this is particularly evident, where people work at a frenetic pace and where huge signs remind the masses of "Vision 2020," Prime Minister Dr. Mahathir Mohammed's goal to have the country granted "developed nation" status by the year 2020. The vision must be catching on: every other day another super-mall, with scores of modern stores and shops, goes up in another suburb. No longer is the economy reliant solely upon the export of the country's natural resources, such as spices, rubber and palm oil. It now boasts not only a national car, the Proton, but also aims to become the technology and financial center of Southeast Asia.

Malaysians have not always had a say in the running of their own country, let alone their cities. Indeed, Malaysia was colonized by the Portuguese, the Dutch and, most recently, the British. Perhaps as a result of Malaysia having been an independent nation since 1957, there is tremendous national pride. This is reflected in many aspects of Malaysian life, but represented most egregiously in the many artifacts and institutions that are brazenly boasted to be the tallest, largest or somehow otherwise "tops" in the world. And modernization has not necessarily meant Westernization. Yes, Western ideals are espoused -- especially among the younger generation -- but the Malaysian identity is still tantamount.

Modern Malaysia

Not surprisingly, downtown KL is an excellent place to witness the fast-paced, "Modern Malaysia." One need not venture very far to get a glimpse of the Petronas Towers, which are currently the world's tallest buildings. These awe-inspiring towers, which look a bit like giant radishes, will not be open to the public until the latter part of 1997, but don't let that stop you from gawking up at the workers putting on the finishing touches at the junction of Jalan Ampang and Jalan P. Ramlee.

Actually, a better place to get a view of these behemoths is at the observation deck of yet another modern attraction off Jalan Punchak in downtown, Menara Kuala Lumpur -- the tallest in Asia. This beacon of pink rises 421 meters above the ground and boasts, aside from spectacular views of the city and its environs, the highest McDonald's outlet on earth, according to the outlet manager. In the event a burger and fries just won't cover your hunger, there's also a fancy revolving restaurant at the top, serving lunch (at about RM50, or US$25), high-tea (RM30/US$12) and dinner (from RM70/US$28) every day. Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner.

Another modern-day wonder, although not unique to Malaysia, is the mega-mall shopping complex. They're popping up throughout KL and the suburbs in ever increasing numbers, and it's unlikely an out-of-town visitor will not run smack into one, either by chance or on purpose. In downtown KL, one of the newest and most impressive is the multi-level Star Hill shopping complex, located in the so-called "Golden Triangle" district, a busy cross-section of streets lined with shops, hotels and businesses. Many of the fancy and well-known international boutiques are located here, such as Gucci, Christian Dior and DKNY, as well as a huge variety of shops and restaurants. Even if you don't buy anything, a stroll through Star Hill can give you a sense of the young, hip, modern Malaysian scene. This place is often jam-packed, especially on weekends, and will no doubt continue to be that way...until the next new, trendy complex comes along.

Finally, the road down Modern Malaysia might just drop you off onto the main thoroughfare of Jalan Sultan Ismail at the Benson & Hedges Bistro -- a true testament to the cafe life. Interestingly, most of the cigarette manufacturers in Malaysia have set up side businesses, such as travel agencies and restaurants, as vehicles for advertising their brands (cigarette product advertising is banned.) Thus, establishments like B&HB. If you can stand the possibility of being politically incorrect, B&HB actually has a very trendy atmosphere, with funky tables and couches, and serves up a fine assortment of food and coffee drinks. With caffe latte and mocha cappuccino on the menu, you can probably tell that this place oozes hip.

Historical KL

While KL is a display of modernity, the city by no means has disregarded its past. To the contrary, some of the most brilliant sights of KL are embedded in history. Indeed, one of the most picturesque spots in the city also happens to be the most historically significant: Merdeka Square. It is here, in front of the impressive and oft photographed Sultan Abdul Samad building, with its unique Moorish architecture and foreboding clock-tower, where Tunku Abdul Raman declared the country independent from Britain on August 31, 1957. In front of thousands of jubilant Malaysians, Tunku Abdul Raman led a famous chant: Merdeka! Merdeka! Merdeka! (Independence!) A grand parade, in which just about every major Malaysian organization participates, from the local post office to multi-national corporations (and in which outlandish costumes seem to be de rigueur) is held once a year to mark the occasion of the nation's birth. It is appropriately known as Merdeka Day.

Also at Merdeka Square is the Royal Selangor Club, an old colonial bastion where the British elite used to wine and dine. Its Tudor-style exterior is quite a contrast to the Middle Eastern-looking Sultan Abdul Samad government building across the square, but it is nonetheless representative of Malaysia's colonial past. You can sometimes catch a game of cricket being played on the grounds in front of the club, which is still a private hangout for the upper echelons of KL society. You'll also find the world's tallest flagpole at Merdeka Square. At night, the Sultan Abdul Samad building, which currently serves as the Supreme Court, is lit up as if it were Christmas, making an excellent photo opportunity.

Very nearby are two important mosques, the Masjid Negara (National Mosque) and the Masjid Jame (Jame Mosque), which stand as prominent symbols of the country's religious history. As is custom for Muslims, a call to prayer occurs five times a day, and many Malays break their work day at each calling. Emanating from the mosques at these times is what is known as the "azan," a sing-songy chant -- sung by the "muezzin" -- that echoes over the area. Friday prayers, held in the afternoon, are the cause of many a traffic jam in KL as worshippers rush to the nearest mosque.

The National Mosque is the larger of the two in central downtown, with a capacity of 5,000, and has a bright blue, jagged rooftop. Originally built in 1965, it was recently refurbished, and now features marble floors, reflecting pools, fountains and a 73-meter high minaret. The Jame Mosque, by contrast, is understated, with an attractive gold dome, originally built in 1897 in traditional Arabic style. Both mosques welcome visitors to peruse the grounds as long as they wear the appropriate garments, which are provided at the entrances. (Both men and women must cover any "bare" body parts, such as arms and legs, and women are asked to cover their head.) Unlike the Western church, where the interior is clogged with pews, mosques offer an airy floor space on which to kneel, and men and women worship in separate compartments. Although prayer times provide a unique opportunity to observe Islamic worshippers, and listen to the azan, you will not be allowed into the premises of any mosque at these times unless you are a Muslim.

If you are really fascinated by mosques, one of the most impressive is the Sultan Sallahudin Mosque, one of the largest mosques in Southeast Asia. Located in Shah Alam, about 16 kilometers outside of KL, it is huge and magnificent -- with an enormous, dark blue cone-like dome and four pronounced minarets pointing to the heavens. Its interior is also open to visitors at non-prayer times. The Sultan Sallahudin Mosque is adjoined by a small man-made lake, which makes it a particularly serene setting, especially at sunset.

Chinatown

While KL's mosques connote an air of calm and solace, no place better symbolizes the opposite end of the city spectrum -- the break-neck speed of commerce -- than Chinatown.

Malaysia's Chinese population, some 30 percent of the country's total, immigrated to Malaysia as early as the 15th century, but largely in the 19th and early 20th century, capitalizing on the spice trade of the Melakan Straits as well as running Malaysia's tin mines -- once the country's main source of income. The Chinese immigrants were hard-working and entrepreneurial, and today, Malaysia's Chinese are at the center of much of the country's commercial activity.

In Chinatown, you can witness in this commerce first hand. Indeed, along Petaling Street, the heart of Chinatown, you will see just about anything and everything being sold. Values can be had, as bargaining is most definitely the order of the day. Along Petaling Street, one word may come in particularly handy: "setengah," which means "half." Locals will often yell out "setengah!" as soon as they hear the first price a vendor offers. It is a practice worthy of imitation.

Chinatown is a fun place to explore, with a myriad of narrow alleyways and a variety of shops. One of the most interesting shops is the Chinese herbal medicine store. Here you will find hundreds of herbs and roots that are all meant to remedy any ailment and/or promote general good health. Coming down with a cold? The storekeeper may just recommend that you boil fresh ginger or hyacinth beans in water with sugar.

Amongst the frenetic pace of Chinatown are also some temples of note, including the Chinese Sze Yeh Temple and Kwong Siew Temple, as well as the Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple.

Also located in Chinatown is Central Market, another shopper's haven. The specialty in this large covered enclave is Malaysian handicrafts. Many stores at Central Market sell clothing and other goods made from the colorful, traditional Malaysian batik -- beautiful and, in most cases, hand-drawn and hand-printed fabrics. Batik makes wonderful shirts, dresses, ties and handkerchiefs.

Central Market is also home to one of the many Royal Selangor outlets. Royal Selangor is the largest and oldest manufacturer of pewter products in the world, having been established since 1885, and its factory is located just outside the center of the city. In fact, the factory is included on most city bus tours and offers the most comprehensive assortment of goods at its adjoining gift shop. Royal Selangor's origins are grounded in Kuala Lumpur's history as the "tin" capital of the world; thus, a stop in one of its stores is a somewhat symbolic visit to KL's commercial past. Today, they make everything from mugs and coasters to letter openers and picture frames.

On The Nature Path

City though it may be, KL and its tropical environs offer a variety of natural wonders for the first-time visitor.

The Lake Gardens, located off Jalan Parliamen, is a large and scenic city park with a host of attractions, many of them unique to the region. For example, there is the Orchid Garden, which displays various species of orchids; the Hibiscus Garden; and the Bird Park, which features many colorful and exotic tropical birds. There is also a deer park, butterfly farm, lake with rental boats and several jogging paths -- all located among lush, well-kept gardens. Also at the Lake Gardens are the Tun Razak Memorial, once the official residence of Tun Abdul Razak, the second Prime Minister of Malaysia, and the National Monument, which depicts the victory of Malaysian soldiers over the "Communist insurgents" and mirrors precisely the famous monument depicting the fall of Iwo Jima. The Lake Gardens are a perfect place for an early morning or late afternoon stroll.

To get a real sense of the tropical rainforest, one might consider going out to the Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) in Kepong, about an hour' s drive away from downtown. Set among a lush, dense rainforest, FRIM offers several walking paths, an impressive waterfall, an informative museum, and an exciting canopy-walk high up between the enormous trees. Templer Park, fourteen kilometers out of the city along Jalan Ipoh, is similar and also has many walking paths and trails through what was once a botanical reserve. Given their proximity to the equator, and thus survival through various global ice ages, Malaysia's rainforests are among the oldest in the world, some 150 million years. FRIM and Templer Park provide an excellent opportunity to witness their wonder, even if the trees are just 150 rather than 150 million years old.

Not far from Templer Park are the Batu Caves, another natural marvel. Discovered in 1878, the Batu Caves are part of a large limestone outcrop and house several items of religious significance to Hindus. An exhausting, 272-step climb, during which scores of cute but aggressive monkeys beckon for munchies, brings you to the Temple Cave, which features a Shrine to Lord Subramania, a Hindu deity. Inside this cave it is dark, damp, cool and a little eerie, but nonetheless spectacular. If the climb up is too daunting, The Museum Cave on the ground level has bright paintings of Hindu gods and other mythical figures. Real coconuts are sold at the bottom of the steps, too, as a refreshing treat after the climb up and down.

The most fascinating time to visit the Batu Caves is during the festival of Thaipusam, which usually falls in January or February. This remarkable festival features hundreds of Hindu devotees who make a journey from a river near the bottom of the steps up to the Temple Cave carrying on their shoulders "kavadis," huge, half-wheel-like structures which are hooked into the devotees' skin. Some devotees also pierce their tongues and cheeks with sharp skewers. This is done to reflect gratitude for blessings received or penance for past sins. It is an awesome, if not gruesome, sight.

Farther away from KL, but also a wonder of nature, are the fireflies at Kampong Kuantan, near Kuala Selangor. From sundown until 11:30 p.m., the local community at Kampong Kuantan run a series of small, gondola-like boats that go back and forth over stretches of river lined by trees filled with thousands of fireflies (known locally as "kelip-kelip.") In the mating call of the male fireflies, the blinking lights are amazingly synchronized, providing the viewer with a spectacular, natural light show. This is apparently one of the few places on earth where this phenomenon occurs. The boat trip itself, which lasts about half an hour, is a calm and relaxing ride. A trip out to Kampong Kuantan, some 56 kilometers from KL, takes well over an hour, so it usually makes sense to combine it with a dinner at one of Kuala Selangor's fine seafood restaurants. Be forewarned that the fireflies tend not to show themselves in full force when it rains.

Local Cuisine

Whether they're busy shopping, sightseeing or exploring nature, visitors are bound to work up an appetite. Luckily, KL has a lot to offer in the local food department. In fact, Malaysia in general, and KL in particular, has an exceptionally wide variety of cuisine available. Each group prepares its own type of food with distinctive flavors. Most Malaysians will tell you that they love to eat. There's ample reason why.

One of the best places to sample local dishes is at the many, many hawker stalls scattered throughout the city. Most of these are located outdoors, but they are also found in the indoor shopping centers, such as Central Market or Star Hill. In either case, variety is the norm: noodle dishes, rice dishes, hot and spicy food, fried and greasy food, soups, salads and more An extremely popular Chinese specialty, served mainly at lunch, is chicken rice. Simple but delicious, it consists of a chopped chicken leg or thigh over rice with a spicy chili and garlic sauce on the side. An equally popular and delicious Chinese dish is fried kway teow, a stir-fry of spicy black bean sauce, egg and noodles, with shrimps or mussels and a few sprouts thrown in for good measure. The cost of these dishes rarely exceeds RM3 (US$1.20).

Malay food is sometimes described as a blend between Indian and Thai. Throw in a little Indonesian and even Chinese influence, and you might be close. One example of a typically Malay dish is nasi goreng, essentially fried rice with a potpourri of additions, such as egg, dried sardines, peanuts and veggies. Mee goreng is a close cousin: fried noodles with chili sauce and fixings. Satay is also a Malaysian favorite; chicken or beef nuggets cooked on a skewer over hot coals and served with a spicy peanut sauce. All Malay food is halal, roughly the Islamic equivalent of kosher.

For an Indian specialty, one of the local favorites is roti canai (pronounced "row-tea, chuh-nye"), basically fried dough, kneaded into a thin, flaky pancake. It comes with a choice of "dipping" sauces -- sometimes lentil, sometimes curry -- and is generally eaten with the hands. In fact, many Malays and Indians prefer to eat with their hands, and you will see it being done with skill and relish. However, only the right hand is used for eating. Roti canai is usually served for breakfast and in the evening, but often not for lunch, when the banana leaf meal is the norm. Actually, the term banana leaf refers to the "plate" that is used to serve the meal, which includes an assortment of bryanni rice (a colorful, mixed rice), green bean and sprout salads, fried chicken or fish, curried mutton or beef, and the like. The idea is to pick and choose, buffet style. One piece of roti canai is usually under RM1(US$0.40), while a banana leaf meal usually runs RM8-12 (US$3.20-4.80). Indian food is sometimes an offer at hawker stalls, but restaurants serving these dishes are never far away.

While sampling local cuisine at hawker stalls is a must, KL also offers a host of unique restaurants. Of special note is Bon Ton, which, in addition to offering quite a fine grounds-eye view of the Petronas Towers, specializes in traditional Nonya cuisine. "Nonya" is a reference to the early female Chinese settlers of Melaka. These earliest Chinese immigrants to Malaysia picked up many of the local customs upon arrival, including language and food; thus, Nonya cuisine is a unique blend of Chinese and Malay cuisine. Bon Ton is located in an old mansion and has a charming interior with tasteful oriental furnishings.

Also of interest, especially for those yearning for a slab of beef, is the restaurant and bar at the Coliseum Hotel on Jalan Tunku Abdul Raman. The atmosphere here is pure colonial past, and the white-clad, no-nonsense waiters -- as well as the somewhat shabby state of the premises -- just add to the notion that you've stepped back sixty or seventy years. The specialty is the "sizzling steak," a huge potion of sirloin or T-bone that is sizzled in butter and gravy on a hot plate right before your eyes. Most people shield their body with the white tablecloth as steam billows from their plate for several minutes. A visit to the Coliseum is as much an experience as it is a hearty, delicious meal.

Finally, for the more refined experience, there's Carcosa Seri Negara, KL's most elegant -- and expensive -- overnight stay. Formerly the official residence of Britain's colonial administrators, Carcosa Negara has hosted many foreign dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth. Each suite comes with two private butlers and a balcony or verandah with a splendid view. Those wishing not to spend the up to RM2,500 (US$1,000) per night can nonetheless enjoy a sophisticated "afternoon tea " for RM28 (US$11.20) in the main dining room, overlooking the lovely gardens above the city.

KL at Night

Like many of the world's capitals, KL lights up at night. After all, this is the time to be outdoors, after the extreme heat of the day has worn away.

One of the most colorful and lively events is the pasar malam, or night market. These take place at certain places across the city on various days of the week. The pasar malam has a very social, almost carnival-like atmosphere, although many of the goods on sale are of a practical nature, such as fruits and vegetables. In fact, the night market is an excellent place to come if you wish to sample some of Malaysia's exotic, tropical fruits. Some of the most unusual include the jackfruit, an enormous fruit that looks a bit like an elongated-watermelon and tastes a bit like a persimmon, but with a rubbery texture; the rambutan, which looks like a hairy grenade on the outside but encloses a super-sweet, lychee-like fruit on the inside; and the mangosteen, a juicy, white fruit encased in a purple peel. Of course, there is also the durian, the so-called King of Fruits, with its notorious smell and creamy textured, onion-like taste. One popular pasar malam in downtown KL takes place along Jalan Tunku Abdul Raman on Saturday evenings, from about 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.

For a bit of culture, albeit manufactured for the tourist crowd, Restoran Seri Melayu offers a buffet dinner of local cuisine and 45-minute "cultural show," which includes a variety of traditional Malaysian dances that originate from places such as Kuantan and Sabah. These colorful and ornate displays give the visitor a chance to witness a way of life very different from the city hubbub. The Malaysia Tourist Information Complex, located across from the New World Hotel, has a similar cultural show every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at 3:30 p.m.

There are also many bars and discos, many of them located in the downtown hotels, such as the Hard Rock Cafe at the Concorde Hotel. Outside the city center, two areas are particularly well-known for their "night scene," especially among the expatriate community: Damansara Utama and Bangsar. Damansara Utama is the place to go if you want to catch some live music. Indeed, one of Malaysia's hottest young musicians, Amir Yussof, owns and plays on Fridays and Saturdays at a small place called X-tasy. The music here, usually a mix of covers and originals, is most accurately described as acoustic rock n' roll. At Bangsar, you'll also find loads of chic restaurants and busy bars, among them a traditional Irish pub, such as the newly-opened Finnegans, and Ronnie Qs. Both Damansara Utama and Bangsar also offer the perennial karaoke lounges.

For the more adventurous, one option to consider is one of the several drag shows in town. Although these events are usually relegated to the fringe of society back home, oddly enough in KL they are extremely popular and virtually mainstream. At the Crown Princess Hotel, the "Absolutely Fabulous" show is a hilarious display of singing and dancing, and a bit of audience teasing. Also well-known is the show at a club called the Boom Boom Room. These shows are not for the kids, but they're not X-rated, either -- just a good laugh and a night on the town.

Kuala Lumpur is an extremely intriguing city where one can spend several days and nights viewing the sights, sampling the cuisine, shopping for unique items, exploring the tropical environs, and -- perhaps most importantly -- getting to know the Malaysian people, who are particularly friendly and congenial. It is a most worthwhile stop on any Southeast Asian itinerary.

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Published on 4/1/97