No Visas Required

View Photos (1) Image © 2000 Brian Randall Francis

Brian Francis braves the sun, sand, salt water and undulating terrain to bring you the attractions and possibilities in Pulau Ubin.

It was after a heavy breakfast that my friend Dave and I set off from Changi Village to explore the wonders of a small island off the northeastern coast of Singapore.

Shaped like a boomerang with a population of 100 and measuring 1,019 hectares, Pulau Ubin is nestled against abandoned gardens and farms with durian, rambutan, chempedak , coconut, and guava and Jackfruit trees.

Our mission, at eight in the morning was to take our kites up as high into the blue Ubin skies whilst enjoying the fresh air, cool winds and nature that we don't get very often on the mainland.

To get to Pulau Ubin, you first need to catch a bus that takes you right into the heart of Changi Village. The only two public buses that stop in Changi Village are Nos. 2 and 29.

A five-minute walk from the bus depot will take you to the steps of the jetty. You then need to board a bumboat for your trip into Ubin.

The bumboat ride costs $2 per trip and sails off from Changi Village every ten minutes. It is able to ferry a maximum of twelve people across at any one time, which means you may have to wait if there are only a few of you.

The saving grace for those who tend to get a little seasick would be that the boat ride takes only ten minutes. The ride is relatively smooth and fright-free although you may get the occasional salt-water splash.

The bumboat service operates from 6.00 am from Changi to 11.00 pm from Pulau Ubin. Private operators operate it.

A life less ordinaryThe first thing you notice when you set foot on Ubin soil is the tranquillity and unspoilt nature that is so predominant on the island.

The 'Ubinites' all exercise the art of laid-back and carefree living. Even the strays that roam freely on the island seem lethargic. But before you indulge in a petting episode, these mongrels can get very territorial and they are accustomed to biting off the hand that feeds them.

Our first stop was at one of the many bicycle kiosks that line the only bustling street on the island. Bicycles rent from S$3 to S$10 per day. The S$3 bikes are for the kids and some even come complete with training wheels.

After examining our bikes (especially the brakes), we were all set to take on Ubin. Cycling is the main mode of transport on the island.

Anyone attempting Pulau Ubin should be able to cycle as the walk can be more tiring and with bikes, it is a lot easier to explore the off-road tracks. Like we did.

If you do not know how to cycle, there are tandem bikes available and there are also bicycles with carriages for your bulky picnic basket.

Nature lovers heaven

The adventure seeker would find a lot to do and top on our agenda was to erect our kites and catch a really strong wind. It didn't take us long before we found a large clearing that is ideal for kite flying on the island.

We later realised that this clearing is part of the sea and we were there at low tide.

Pulau Ubin is unlike the mainland with no high-rise buildings. In fact the highest buildings were the two-storey shophouses and kampungs that dot the island.

The island has unending natural intrigues. As one of Singapore's largest natural backyards, it houses both flora and fauna, ranging from mangroves to secondary forests, insects to birds, mammals to reptiles; not forgetting our marine friends on her fair shores as well. Pulau Ubin is indeed a haven to a wide range of wildlife.

Newly hatched fishes, prawns, crabs, and all kinds of burrowing creatures find their home by the mangrove swamps, which make up most of the coastline.

Seawater poses no problem to mangrove trees as they are able to tolerate flooding by breathing through their aerial roots.

The scent of greenery and all things livingMangroves are also home to the marine life on Pulau Ubin. The most common species would include mud-lobsters, mudskippers and sea snails.

Commonly found on the island are the arachnids. Species include the golden web spider and the jumping spider, each with its own unique characteristics, adding on to the natural intrigues of this wildlife haven.

Two hours later and the incoming tide forced us to continue our journey of the island. The overlapping trees and lush greenery provided a nice shade from the blazing sun but the undulating asphalt tracks made cycling a chore in some areas.

Although Pulau Ubin has fairly decent sanitation facilities, the entire island has no potable water. Signs informing you to refrain from drinking tap water are visible in every toilet on the island.

You can either choose to bring your own drinks or buy canned or coconut water from the many kiosks that spray the entire island.

Fishing is another popular sport and the island is dotted with anglers with rods in hand and baskets full of freshly caught fish.

Salt water laden airAnother frequented spot on the island is Noordin Beach. White sands and bikini-clad women are there for the drooling. Surprisingly, the beach has more 'tourists' than natives.

Swimming at the beach is out of the question. Irresponsible picnickers have polluted the water debris and the oil slick seems to line the shores.

This however does not seem to be a deterrent for most of the 'tourists' as it is with Marc Levinson an investment banker who visits the island regularly. Marc says, "It is a great getaway from the hustle and bustle and traffic jams of Shenton Way and most parts of the mainland. I come leaving all that behind". "It's here that I get to enjoy fresh air and the salty breeze", Marc says.

True to Marc Levinson and many other who think along the same lines, Pulau Ubin is a delightful retreat from the bustle of Singapore, an island with a rural lifestyle that has changed little in 30 years.

Another popular sight on Ubin is the abundant temples flooded with devotees from the mainland. Temples like the Jalan Wat Siam and the ever-vibrant Thai temple are just a few that give Pulau Ubin its colour.

Cycling deeper into the secondary forests, small rubber plantations and coconut groves interrupt you and even the odd wild boar.

Peek into abandoned home gardens and farms and you might be fortunate enough to chance upon the occasional cotton and cocoa trees.

Of farmers and fowl

Orchid farming is one of the trades practised by some of the islanders who prefer to earn their living by staying on the island rather than pay high prices for the land on the mainland.

Here, the farmers can cultivate their plants without having to fork out the extra capital to pay for land in land-scarce Singapore.

Among all the mesmerising sights, the quarry was the most breathtaking with its still yet treacherous turquoise blue waters. Adventure seekers bravely jump off the 75-metre cliffs into the deep blue waters.

Pulau Ubin is also home to more than 145 species of birds like the White bellied Sea Eagles. Chickens, geese, ducks and turkeys makeup the numbers and roam the island freely.

The only modern fixture on the island is the newly developed Ubin Lagoon Resort and its neighbour the Outward Bound School.

The sprawling compound offers 106 chalets outfitted with the highest quality teakwood furniture and modern-day amenities and a manmade lagoon. A host of structured activities ensure a fun-filled stay.

The new amidst the old

Single-storey chalets go for $150 (weekday) and $190 (weekend) and the duplex costs $210(weekday) and $250 (weekend). The single-storey chalet can house up to four people while the duplex houses six.

Indulge in archery, pool, Jacuzzi, canoeing and many others. The resort even has an outdoor gym and three swimming pools for those who dislike the salty water.

In addition, the resort also has its own restaurant and it also caters to private functions and romantic barbecues.

The menu prices at the restaurant is a little steep so you might want to bring your own food as we did and have a cool picnic on any one of the many picnic benches available.

Within the compound, the outdoor adventure club offers a 22-metre international standard Extreme Sports Tower and abseiling (wall rappelling).

The Outdoor Adventure Centre is fun and at the same time, a prolific method in discovering your full potential.

The resort has its very own Junior's Corner. Keep the kiddies busy whilst you assume your holiday mode with arcade games, a mini water-theme park and a Mega Maze.

The Ubin Lagoon Resort is a 15-minute boat ride from Ponggol Marina.

For those who prefer to use the stars as a blanket, Ubin has boundless camping sites. Campers can choose to rent a tent just for the day or the entire weekend.

Waste away a lazy afternoon lying in a hammock on Ubin. Enjoy a leisurely canoe ride, an evening barbecue or a sunset stroll by the beach or even a lavish picnic. You can do it all and have it all.

Dave and I went to Ubin to fly kites and ended up doing a lot more. We left the island with apprehension of the hustle and bustle that was to greet us once again on the mainland.

Published on 9/21/01